We receive a small commission if you click on the ads (selected by Google), or if you link to a product recommended by us.
We receive a small commission if you click on the ads (selected by Google), or if you link to a product recommended by us.
Jump ahead to the Jaipur portion of this travelogue
Jump ahead to the Rathambore portion of this travelogue
Jump ahead to the Agra portion of this travelogue
Jump ahead to the Lucknow-Varanasi portion of this travelogue
India has always been of interest but has been surrounded by fear - both health and language. Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT), whom we have used three previous times on "concerned" trips (Morocco, China, and Ancient Kingdoms of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam) was offering a trip to Northern India (Delhi and area, including Taj Mahal) at a special price. So special that we jumped at the chance.
OAT limits most groups to 16; on this trip there were 15 people, most of whom took the pre-trip extension to Bhutan. We started in Delhi and followed the red line on the map counterclockwise. We went to Lucknow, rather than Khajuraho as shown on the map.
Our travel group, with the trip leader "Addy" Aditya Singh in the foreground.
Incidentally the ladies are sitting on the same bench used by Princess Diana when she visited the Taj Mahal.
India is a long way... we departed Austin on Sunday afternoon October 20, on a 3:45 flight to JFK airport in New York, with a quick connection to a 15 hour flight to Delhi India, it was almost midnight by the time we reached our hotel (time zone 10.5 hours earlier than Austin, 11.5 hours without daylight savings time. Yes, not all time zones are a full hour).
India highways are scary. Not because they drive on the left side of the road, but because they consider traffic rules just general suggestions for large busses and trucks. It was fairly common to have a motor scooter coming at you going the wrong way, and a red light was only a minor hint for most vehicles. Traffic occasionally included horse or camel drawn carts, sacred cows, or bicycle rickshaws. Motor scooters and tuk-tuks (huge numbers of three wheel vehicles used as Taxis) are by far the most common things on the highway, and are small enough that you often see 5 abreast in a two or three lane intersection.
I: The assumption of immortality is required of all road users.
II: Indian traffic, like Indian society, is structured on a strict caste system. In descending order give way to cows, elephants, camels, buffalo, pigs, goats, dogs, heavy trucks, buses, official cars, pedal rickshaws, private cars, motorcycles, scooters, auto rickshaws, handcarts, and pedestrians.
III: All vehicles must be driven with the maxim: to slow is to falter, to brake is to fail, to stop is defeat.
IV: Use of horn: Cars: Short blasts indicate supremacy, i.e. clearing dogs, rickshaws, and pedestrians from the path. Long blasts (desperate) denotes supplication (I am going too fast to stop, so unless you slow down we are both going to die). This can be accompanied by flashing headlights (frantic). Single casual blast means I have not blown my horn for a minute.
V: All maneuvers, use of horn, and evasive action shall be left until the last possible moment.
VI: In the absence of seat belts, car occupants shall wear garlands of marigolds.
VII: Overtaking is mandatory and should only be undertaken in suitable conditions such as in the face of oncoming traffic, on blind bends at junctions, and in the middle of villages. No more than two inches should be allowed between your vehicle and the one you are passing, one inch in the case of pedestrians and bicycles.
Humans arrived on the Indian continent between 73,000 and 55,000 years ago. Between 8000 and 6500 B.C., there was a gradual shift from dependence on wild resources to domesticated plants and animals. The Harappan civilization dates from about 3300 B.C. (over 5,000 years ago) to about 1300 BC, the bronze age. Harappan people were overtaken by the Aryan invasion around 1000 - 1500BC (some historians disagree with the "invasion" word, but somehow the Aryans got there). The Harappan people were pushed south, so the Dravidian people in the southern peninsula of India are actually the true descendents of the Harappans. The Aryans developed Hinduism and Sanskrit, the "mother language" of most Indian languages. Harappans developed many notable advances in technology, including standardized weights and measures. They also demonstrated advanced architecture with highly planned cities with grid systems, plumbing, dockyards, granaries, warehouses, brick platforms, and protective walls. They apparently disbanded because of drought and famine. Little is known about them because their writing system has yet to be deciphered.
Starting about 1526 AD, Mughals Empire gradually integrated the country, and ruled India. About 1600 the East India company was founded by London Merchants, and granted a monopoly on Indian trade. About 1750 the British started annexing territory through the East India Company, before the establishment of British rule in India in 1858. India is considered one of the world's youngest countries, gaining independence from the United Kingdom on August 15, 1947.
As a new country, garbage collection is a new concept in most cities. One city (Varanasi) is making a great effort, cleaning the streets and collecting trash daily. Every shop is required to have a trash basket in front of the shop, but we saw a local, standing next to a basket, unwrap an item and throw the paper on the ground - the natives have not changed their habits yet.
The legal system has not come up to speed yet. Trials are before 1-3 judges, no jury. A criminal trial may take 20 years to resolve, a civil trial may take 40 years. International investors are repelled by the lack of an efficient judicial system, but keep pouring money into India. By the 1990s India has become a powerhouse in the software industry.
In 16 days in India, I did NOT see ANY graffiti. It is presumably a poor country, but in 6 cities I only saw three people sleeping on the street - fewer than any American city.
|
Our first destination was to a Sikh temple. They are very peaceful (generally) and charitable, tolerant of other monotheistic religions, and characterized by not modifying their bodies (cutting hair, piercing, shaving, etc.). Men are normally seen with turbans, covering their long hair, and are required to carry a Kirpan (small dagger) at all times. |
Their charitable practice includes offering free meals to anyone (not just a "soup kitchen" for the destitute). They serve 30,000 meals per day here, with all volunteer labor. This group will spend the day peeling potatoes as their act of charity. |
|
|
Members of our group helped roll out the tortilla-like bread. It had previously been mixed and kneaded in giant hot-tub size mixers. |
Then the bread was cooked on griddles - three cooks with 5 foot long skewers placing, turning, and finally removing the cooked bread to the pile at the end... |
|
|
where it was stacked until the bucket was full and... |
taken to the storage area where trays were filled for waiters. |
|
|
Lentil stew and other foods were also prepared for those serving the guests. |
The guests sat on the floor with their metal plates and were served. As each section finished, the area was mopped and prepared for the next set of guests. |
|
|
The Sikh are generally peaceful, but are ready to defend the oppressed. Here is a volunteer "server" posing with a member of our group, but notice his silver handled kirpan (sword) at the ready.
Google reports that their charity includes low cost medical care for the poor. Since March 2021 the clinic provides an MRI for US$0.59 |
As we left the Sikh temple I saw this impressive monument from the bus (no explanatory sign). The best Google has been able to come up with is Gyarah Murti (11 statues) commemorating the Salt March of 1930. It is featuring Mahatma Gandhi and his followers in peaceful protest of the British tax on salt during India's Independence struggle. This is comparable to the Boston Tea Party in America. |
|
|
Teen Murti memorial (three statues) in memory of the Cavalry officers who gave their lives in the Great War of 1914-1919 |
Monkeys are common "wildlife" in this part of Delhi. |
|
The residence built by the British Viceroy, but now used by the president of India |
|
|
Central Secretariat - a government building in the area |
India Gate - the "Triumphal Arch" that seems to be required in each capital city. |
|
|
Humayuns Tomb is a UNESCO world heritage site, built in 1570, as the first "garden" tomb. It was the inspiration for the larger Taj Mahal built a century later, from white marble instead of red stone. |
The tombs represent the afterlife (heaven) so there is sometimes an entrance building (judgment) before getting the full view of the mausoleum. |
|
< |
As we approach the tomb building, the "garden" tombs have water features and landscaped gardens |
Eventually you reach the entrance |
|
|
and can go to the elegant "burial" area |
Others (family members) are entombed in anterooms |
|
|
The central facility is very impressive (but we haven't yet seen the much larger Taj Mahal). |
The six point star was a frequent decoration of this period. |
|
|
There are other smaller mausoleums in the same complex |
We then walked through the market areas of Old Delhi |
|
|
Example of the congestion on the street - note that this is just on the "close" lane, flowing right to left - the traffic is flowing better in the far lane ... if you ignore people in the road.. |
We visited the cremation site of Ghandi - the platform with flowers in the distance (I didn't feel like taking my shoes off, as expected for "holy" sites, to walk closer) |
|
|
This was also the site of a school field trip... and lots of kids who also didn't want to bother seeing it closer. |
Continue with the Jaipur portion of this travelogue
Jump ahead to the Ranthambore portion of this travelogue.
Jump ahead to the Agra portion of this travelogue.
Jump ahead to the Lucknow - Varanasi portion of this travelogue.
Creating these travelogues are fun, but a lot of work. I would love to hear from you, perhaps because you enjoyed it, or with corrections and clarifications. Send e-mail comments to Charlie@Plesums.com
Back to the list of Jenny and Charlie's Travelogues
Back to Jenny and Charlie's home page at www.plesums.com
Visit Charlie's custom furniture site at www.plesums.com/wood
Visit Charlie's site for solo woodworkers and other crafts at www.solowoodworker.com
This entire site (layout and contents) ©2003-2024 by Charles A. Plesums, Austin, Texas USA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. If you would like to make or distribute copies of this document, or incorporate all or part in another web page or site, please contact us.
/p>
